Sunday 24 February 2013

Brasilia: only thing going for it is the architecture (ouch!)

Electricity
Pigeons
Illuminated
Candangos

Sadly the capital of Brazil does not have a huge amount to offer tourists. It is a very young city, founded in 1956, conceived by modern standards of urban planning, and so all the attractions (if you can even call them that) are purely architectural.

When seen from above, the city's shape was designed to resemble an airplane. It has received both praise and criticism for its attempt at creating a city by design rather than through "organic" growth. Since the city was completely planned before building it is divided into sectors. There are sectors for hotels, banks, government, commerce and residents.

We first visited Santuário Dom Bosco, which is a church made of 80 concrete columns that support 7500 pieces of illuminated Murano glass symbolizing a starry sky, and which cast a blue glow over the pews. The central chandelier weighs 2.5 tonnes and consists of 435 light bulbs (Imagine the electricity bill for that baby!) Everybody was quite impressed with this building

Cathedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora Aparecida was surprisingly small from outside. Entrance was gained via an underground tunnel which brought us into a bright and spacious church. Four apostles stood outside the cathedral and angels were suspended from the ceiling inside.

Praça dos Trés Poderes was surrounded by the most interesting monuments, museums and federal buildings. The space consisted of striking sculptures including 'Os Candangos' (8m tall bronze sculpture paying homage to the workers who built Brasilia), 'A Justica' (seated, blindfolded woman with a sword sculpture signifying fairness and the power to achieve it, located in front of the headquarters of the Supreme Court) and 'O Pombal' (a giant wooden clothes peg sculpture that is now home to hundreds of pigeons). The congress building, Congresso Nacional, featured the photogenic ‘dishes’ and twin towers.

Palacio da Alvorada, the presidential palace, was a dull enough building - not very palatial at all. Only interesting thing about it was the fact that the garden was not cordoned off by a wall or fence. It had a tiny, extremely wade friendly, moat with some fishes and that was all. The driveway was guarded and had security gates; but a hop, skip and a jump and you could leap the moat and be running though the garden straight up to the palace. Land-mines were our guesstimate. We later learned that the grounds are supervised by armed guards who have a shoot-to-injure policy for trespassers, and a shoot-to-kill policy for persistent buggers. Nice, n'est pas?

We checked out the memorial for JK (founder of Brasilia Juscelino Kubitschek). Inside lies his remains in a granite tomb. Went for a quick spin over President JK bridge also. Before leaving Brasilia we headed up the 72m high TV Tower which gave 360 degree panoramic views of the city.











































































Lolling around Lovely Lençóis

Eye-rolling
Parque National da Chapada Diamantina
Incredible
Cobblestone

Lençóis is a municipality in the state of Bahia and was founded to exploit diamonds in the region. We stayed in a nice camping site hidden away among the narrow cobblestone streets. How Pete manoeuvred Ithaca through them astounded us all - a lesser man would have said 'feck that', parked in the spacious town plaza and made us walk to the site. Granted all the cooking utensils and food is on the truck, but that would have been another issue.

Lençóis has a lot of pretty views to offer visitors; I passed up on the opportunity to do a 25km walk through the spectacular picture perfect scenery as, despite the heat, I'm not completely devoid of my senses just yet. Instead I opted to check out a few popular attractions that didn't involve too much hiking.

Myself and 11 others of the group set off to see Parque National da Chapada Diamantina which contains an abundance of plants, waterfalls, large caves and rivers with natural swimming pools. We followed the Rio Mucugezinho for a little bit, where it plunges over Cachoeira do Diabo (Devil's Pool) and headed down to enjoy swimming in the natural pool underneath. Back in the 19th century slaves used to construct aquaducts that channeled water to areas where diamond miners worked and used the water to wash the rock in search of diamonds. Devil's Pool was named because of the amount of slaves that died in the process of trying to divert water from the river and from diving to great depths to locate rocks containing diamond rock. The pool is a natural place for diamonds to accumulate due to the current and abrasion of swirling rocks and sand. The Devil's Pool is a great place to swim in the beauty of the surrounding cliffs and river valley. Plus, the water was very cold, a refreshing change from the oppressive heat.

Next up was a trip to a huge cave, Gruta do Lapa Doce in Pratinha. Not sure on the exact details but we walked underground for about 1km, seeing load of stalactites, stalagmites, columns, and hanging curtains. One formation even looked like an owl - can you see the resemblance in the photo below? Our guide had fun making shadow puppets using the formations, and for a minute we all saw a T-Rex come out of the shadows. I can only imagine how bored he must have been in order to come up with that discovery in the first place. Either way the cave was incredible, really huge, and pitch black apart for the light that came from our torches.

Checked out Gruta Azul (Blue Cave) at Pratinha. Unfortunately it is not the right time of year to see the pool illuminated crystal blue. I'm sure it looks amazing when the light catches it correctly. However we just saw a slight blue ripple in the centre of the lake. We also went for a dip in the Pratinha river; there were numerous fishes about so a few people went snorkelling. We had a few brave fishes attempting to exfoliate the soles of our feet, however some were a little too eager and gave quite a nip.

Saw Morro de Camelo (Camel Hill) from a distance and climbed up to the table-top mountain at Morro de Pai Inacio which offered a beautiful view of the Chapada. We stayed up there just until after sunset, it was a reflective experience as it's been a long while since I sat and just watched the sun go down. I noticed that we all kinda broke away to our own area to sit and watch the sunset in a companionable silence. Only niggle was that a few Americans clapped after the display finished; these are no doubt the same people who applaud pilots for successful landings. They got a few funny looks from us as we wondered if they clap and rejoice after every daily sunset. Seriously folks!! Major eye-rolling on my part.

Time for another city, Brasilia beckons next....